Farfalle all’Ortolano with Pole Beans

Not bad. Was looking for something light after having fried chicken for lunch at the Hard Knox Cafe, whose food is soulful and prices pretty much unbelievably low.

Pole beans are remarkably flavorful and complex but not overly starchy. We found some at the farmers’ market and were seduced by their exotic color.

For pasta:

• 1 cup dried farfalle (bowtie pasta)
• 1 cup purple pole beans
• 1/4 cup butter
• 1 tbsp. chopped sage
• 1/4 tsp. (or a few threads) saffron

In a microwave-safe bowl add butter, sage, and saffron; microwave on high for 1 minute. Boil water, cook pole beans for 5 minutes or until tender, drain and add to butter sauce. Boil water and cook pasta as normal, add to beans and butter sauce and toss.

For sauce all’Ortolano (”greengrocer’s sauce”):

• 1 cup dry-farmed tomatoes, chopped
• 1 red onion, chopped
• 1 green bell pepper, julienned
• 1 carrot, finely chopped
• 1/2 cup parmigiano reggiano, finely grated

Combine vegetables in a preheated cast iron skillet until onions sweat and the tomatoes begin to break down. Transfer to a bowl, toss with grated parmigiano reggiano until thick like a romesco.

Served with a mixed bitter green salad with a cardamom-yogurt-mint dressing:

• 2 cups mixed greens (frisée, arugla, etc.)
• zest of 1 lemon
• 1/2 cup yogurt
• 1/2 tsp. ground black cardamom
• 1 tsp. olive oil
• handful of mint leaves, finely chopped

Toss greens in a bowl with olive oil, lemon zest, salt and pepper to taste. Mix yogurt, cardamom, and mint, place a few teaspoons on the plate. Cover with tossed greens.

I served the pasta and beans and the sauce separately. The addition of the cheese gave the sauce the body needed to stand up in a mound next to the buttery pasta and beans. Keeping the flavors separate brought out the contrasts between the different textures and flavors — this would’ve been totally lost if I had done a more typical pasta dressing in which the noodles are coated.

I am starting to think that the really best meals are comprised of very distinct flavors and textures, each of which is focused upon individually, but with restraint, and never over-elaboration….