Sunday Restaurant Roundup

Indigo on McAllister and Gough serves moderately priced new American in a dress casual setting. They seem to have a bit of an identity crisis — the restaurant shares a bathroom with the nightclub downstairs, which on our evening was packed with drunk UCSF medical students. The booming music makes the floor in the dining room vibrate, which seems to put off some of the St. John-clad socialites who’ve spilled north from Hayes Valley. The food is unremarkable; my pork tenderloin dish was overcooked and chewy, the deep fried oysters were served with a cucumber salad that was so tart as to overshadow the oyster; sauces are still drizzled with a squeeze bottle overtop. The bottomless wine-glass dinner deal attracts those looking to get the most inebriation for their dollar. Cappucino quality poor. ($$$)

Myconos is a crazy loud Greek joint on Polk serving enormous platters of mixed souvlaki, spanakopita and other Greek favorites. Very reasonably priced; the saganaki, a deep fried cheese dish served flambéed with brandy is excellent. A bit on the oily side, but definitely a fun evening out. Probably family friendly. ($)

Umami in the Marina just off Union street is another restaurant that seems to be still struggling to find its reason for being. The food is Japanese fusion, crossing some Mexican, mediterranean and other cuisines; when this works, the results are good, but when it fails the food is disastrous. Examples: ahi tuna “tacos” served between fried wonton “taco shells” succeed — they are delicately laced with cumin, a good starter for those who are not fish purists; by contrast, a bizarre cookie dough stuffed with gelato dessert is served with a soapy-tasting wasabi whipped cream and Pocky sticks and a limp chocolate cream sauce — riffing on a California roll with soy and wasabi but failing in quite nearly every direction. Dishes are served tapas-style so every diner gets to taste the confusion. ($$$)

(What is the deal with so many people having birthdays in April — I feel as though I’ve gained fifteen pounds this month on dining out)


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